Saturday 29 May 2010

Outstanding Story #2

It was brought to my attention that I kind of left you all hanging with only one of my several Outstanding Stories from our adventures with Phil.

Let me fill you in on another (though I don't know that the ones to follow are quite as outstanding as the first).

Outstanding Story #2

When my dad was in town we noticed something interesting. We were walking down on of the shopping streets in Osaka, when we saw one store devoted entirely to straw hats - the kind of straw hats you might expect to see someone wearing while attending to a soda fountain or making a sundae. The store was totally empty. Dad and I didn't hold out much hope for them. It turns out, Dad and I did't understand the subtlety of fashion trends.

I started to see straw hats in all the stores.

When Phil came, he also noticed a straw hat and laughed about it a little. We explained that straw hats were the latest trend and then he started seeing them everywhere. They are often paired with white-washed denim dresses or skirts, big brown leather accessories and feminine floral prints on white fabrics. This is the look of Spring, come to find out - at least, it is this year.

Phil decided he needed pictures - or at least one good picture to show people at home. The problem was getting a picture. It seemed creepy for a guy to take a picture of some girl on the train. Unfortunately, Phil didn't speak enough Japanese to ask, charmingly, if he could take someone's picture. Russell wasn't helping. Phil decided to be covert. He started trying to catch photos of people secretly. They weren't turning out too well, but eventually we got a display in a store window that summed things up. The mass of pictures with straw hats in large crowds should be enough to confirm that yes, this fashion had been adopted by the masses.



Oh, and we also saw Carmen Sandiego.

I ♥ Kasuganomichi

Russell has devoted a great deal of time over the last year to try and find groups to join, friends to talk to, events to enjoy - anything to help him meet people and use more Japanese. He's been a trooper, but his socializing scheme has not panned out so well. You have followed some of the "Join a Band" saga (I have a happy update coming), but there have been so many more attempts that have gone the same direction.

Conversation partners: Russell was lucky enough to meet an awesome friend who he spent a lot of time with for the first 6 months... until that friend moved to LA.

Bands: Russell joined one band only to have almost everyone else become to busy or quit before they could rehearse together. He auditioned for another band, but their lead singer quit and they disbanded, and finally, he tried out for another band where he didn't get a call back.

Local bar: This one worked okay. He always has somewhere he can go to chat. He also gets the benefit of chatting with men, which is good because men's speech and women's speech is not the same in Japan. Its a problem when men learn to speak with women Japanese friends.

Mixi: Mixi is an online social network in Japan, not unlike Facebook. It took Russell a lot of work to get an account (he finally had to contact his old university to reactivate his student email address) but he managed to get in. He decided to search for groups to join and typed in Kasuganomichi (our neighborhood). Lo and behold, there was an "I ♥ Kasuganomichi" club. He joined. He was then invited to come to an I ♥ Kasuganomichi club party.

And that's where our latest adventure begins.

Last night Russell and I went to meet some of the other folks in our neighborhood. The party was a house party (our first in Japan). We met the party planner at the train station and headed to the next station over. The party was in one of the members' apartments. When we arrived there were three low tables set up with a big electric skillet in the middle of the table and tons of plates heaped with meat and bowls full of vegetables. We were handed beers and chu-hai (a sort of carbonated, fruit flavored alcohol) and sat down to talk with people and wait for the crowd to gather. It turns out there were about 7 other people at the party (apparently a low turn out).

Who else was there?

There was the party planner - a third year university student, the owner of the apartment (a nurse), a preschool teacher, a local mafia guy (this might have been a joke, but he did have a giant dragon tatoo on his arm), a tennis instructor, an international automotive businessman, a gas station attendant, and a guy who was certainly the life of the party but I have no idea what his job was.

It was a very mixed crowd of 20-30 year olds and it was a LOT of fun. They were all very welcoming, the food was AMAZING (and extremely plentiful). We gorged ourselves on grilled meat and vegetables, then the hostess started making grilled onigiri (rice balls) and since two birthdays had just gone by, next came two big (delicous) cakes. At some point after this, one of the guests realized that we hadn't made the yakisoba yet! It was voted down. We were all a little over stuffed.

We also spent the whole evening speaking Japanese. Russell is able to actually do full on Japanese, now, I was able to follow the conversations pretty darn well, but I'm still not quick or confident enough to participate. I need to work on that.

We were invited to go camping with them in August.

Monday 24 May 2010

That's some rain...

So the rain was hard enough this morning that public schools were shut down and the train was an hour delayed.

I didn't have any problem getting to work (sometimes its nice to live close) but I did take a change of shoes, imagining I would need them. I wore my Dansko's to work because they keep me the farthest away from the puddles. I made it 90% of the way to work, but just as I was going down the last set of stairs outside our school, I managed to step in a two inch puddle that went up to my ankle. Thinking I had just hit the deep part of the puddle, I took a leap towards the school. Turned out the whole walk was under two inches of water. At this point both feed were completely under wanter and my pants were thoroughly splashed with rain water.

I was glad I had my spare shoes. Of course, the water had soaked through the bag they were in, so they didn't LOOK like my dry shoes... but at least they were dry on the inside.

We get a week of dry (hopefully not hot and humid) weather after this.

Sunday 23 May 2010

Highlights of Months Past

As I'm sure you've noticed, my blogging has been spotty at best these last couple of months. A lot of that has had to do with the new school year starting. The additional responsibility of acting as contact for four study abroad schools on top of a full teaching schedule has kept me quite busy. I feel like I barely find time to fit in sleep anymore - let alone blogging. Hopefully that will improve, though, now that everything is up and running.

In the meantime, I have failed to post some outstanding stories. Better get going on that, eh?

Outstanding Story #1: Nara and Fushimi Inari Shrine with Phil.

Phil headed home weeks ago... a month ago? Russell and I really enjoyed the company and we managed to get out to do quite a bit of sight seeing even though Phil worked most of the week days with Russell. One of the last trips we made was to Nara (to see the deer and giant Buddha) and then on to Fushimi Inari for a hike through the Torii-lined trails of the shrine. (Torii are the red gates found at Shinto shrines.) This shrine, as you may remember from Carolyn and Dad's visits has thousands of torii and is quite beautiful.

Unfortunately, Russell's leg was acting up and he didn't think he'd survive a hike. He had brought his computer, so he headed off to find internet somewhere while Phil and I took on the shrine. I'm afraid prior knowlege of how daunting the hike at this shrine can be has caused me to see this particular stop as a hiking challenge more than a sight-seeing destination. This meant I charged up the hill with little regard for whether Phil might want to, you know, enjoy the scenery or take a few odd pictures. . I'm not always the most thoughtful hostess.

It turned out to be a good thing that we had raced through the shrine, though. A couple hours later, just when we were on our way out, I got a message from Russell. I quote:

Russell: "Status?"
Jaci: "On our way out. I"ll text at exit."
Russell: "I"m at a bar nearby: Asonia." "Bartender is trying to feed me Absynthe"
5 minutes later
Jaci: "Just finished"
Russell: "What should I do?"
Jaci: "About the absynthe?"
Russell: " Ha. He gave me some. I think I have to drink it. Mottainai"

So Russell sent us a map with directions so we could find him. Phil and I set off. Just as we were arriving, though, we saw the previously mentioned bartender and Russell exiting the bar and going into some sort of business next door. It looked like a display room or storage room for antiques. We couldn't really see in very well, but there was another older guy there. Everyone took their shoes off before going in and we saw them all kneeling down at a low table where Russell was getting instructions on something (proper neighborhood shrine etiquette we later found out). Phil and I weren't so sure we wanted to join in, so we hung back a bit to see what would happen (and took pictures, of course).

After showing respects, the older fellow go up and started untying something we couldn't quite see. It turns out he was responsible for this little neighborhood shrine and had an extensive collection of samurai armor on display there. He wanted Russell to try on one of the helmets. Once the helmet came out, Phil and I knew we needed to get close enough for a decent picture - no more covert footage. The bartender saw us and we explained that we were with Russell. At this point, Russell was all geared up, so we took some pictures. We weren't disappointed. Along with the helmet, Russell was given a sword (sheathed and tied down after a long explanation of how dangerous the blades were). More pictures. Then the "God of the Shrine" (as the bartender had apparently referred to the older man) offered to suit Phil up as well. The helmet switched heads, and more photos were taken.

The "God of the Shrine" explained that the armor was going to be used in a parade that weekend for Golden Week. Apparently the parade was the start of a rather large festival which would include horseback acrobatics - of the kind designed to avoid getting shot by arrows. Apparently an ambulance is needed every year. We were invited to come watch (which we unfortunately had to pass on- hopefully we can go next year). After that, we headed back to the bar. The bartender was awesome. He spoke quite good English but was happy to use either language - which was good for Russell, who wanted to practice Japanese, and Phil and I, who couldn't keep up. Overall, he seemed a very friendly, laid back sort of guy, and we will definitely visit his establishment again when we are next in the Kyoto area. Phil also sampled the Absynthe (tastes like black licorice) and we all agreed it was a perfectly decent spirit - presuming you like black licorice.

Thank goodness Phil and I didn't dilly dally at the shrine!

Rainy Season Year 2

Guess what time of year it is?

Early this year instead of late, we have reached rainy season. It is currently dumping buckets outside. The nice part of this is that it is not hot. Its just good honest cold rain. I have no problem with that. I know all the water is going to mix with some hot weather next week and things are going to get ugly, though, so I am experiencing our weather today with a solid dose of pessimism.

Apparently, rainy season is usually in July. This might just be a surprise spring shower and not actually rainy season yet, but no one seems to believe that.

Last year Spring was lovely and the rains didn't start until almost August.

Needless to say, I don't really know WHAT to expect from Japanese weather. There seem to be 10 distinct seasons and they start whenever they darn well please. It does keep things interesting, though.

Now if only the oppressively hot summer will surprise us all with a short stay...

More to come soon. I have great things to post but we are coming up on Midterms and life has just been crazy. I'll do my best to get some more posts out soon.

Tuesday 11 May 2010

I love surprises!

When I got home this evening, Russell told me he had gotten me a surprise and that I would probably find it at some point. I asked him if I should hunt for it and he said no, not especially.

Mysterious.

So I went about my usual unwind-from-work routine. It was only later, when I was putting away dishes that I discovered:



The best mug EVER. It says Piranya Cafe (the cafe down the street). "Piranya" is a cutesy way of saying piranha in Japanese.
I love it.

Saturday 8 May 2010

Its what's for dinner

I was talking to my mother and grandmother today and my grandmother asked me what I had for dinner. It reminded me of a question Phil had asked us, something along the lines of "Are you guys cooking Japanese food now?"

The honest answer is, "no." I don't think any Japanese person would claim the food we make as part of their culture. Even so, our cooking has changed significantly since coming to Japan.

Change #1: Some things you just can't get.
Cheese for example. One of Russell's favorite meals/snacks in the US was a burrito with whole wheat tortilla, whatever leftovers we had in the fridge and cheese on top. With no tortillas (much less whole wheat ones), no cheese (plastic-y camembert doesn't count as cheese), and no microwave, this tradition bit the dust. As a side effect, with the lack of regular cheese and milk, Russell's body remembered that it was lactose intolerant, so dairy is pretty much out in all forms. Even pizza. I don't get pizza any more, even though I found a pizza place I like. Bummer. We also can't get decent peanut butter. Yes, there is Skippy at most supermarkets, but it costs $8 for a tiny little jar and, well, its Skippy. There is a rumor that a store in Osaka has fresh ground peanut butter, but we've been too lazy to seek it out, so unless a kind traveler brings us some (thanks Dad and Phil!), we are pretty much peanut butter free.

Change #2: Different ingredients at different prices
Of course, there is a wide variety of seafood to be experimented with. Its kind of fun and terrifying to grab a couple filets of some kind of fish you have never seen before and hope its tasty. It usually is. The vegetables are also awesome. You can get some of the same things - spinach, carrots, potatoes, green onions, green peppers, etc. But there are a lot of other vegetables that are either less favored in America or downright unavailable. There are several varieties of mushrooms that I had never seen in the States (but LOVE) and a different style of eggplant that has become a staple at our house. Then there's goya (bitter melon, which I mentioned in a previous post) and different varieties of sweet potato. In spring, there is a lot of bamboo shoot, too. Oh, and burdock root (gobo), okra and lotus root are also easy to come by. All of these are delicious and we cook with them often. We never use tomatoes. Aside from the fact that I don't like them anyway, they are crazy expensive all year round. Fruit is also expensive. We just have to bite it on that one, though. Neither of us are willing to live fruit free. We try to eat whatever is cheapest, though. Usually bananas and oranges. Right now, there are a variety of fruits in season so we have been feasting. Strawberries are under $4 a container, I got a half pineapple for $2 and a big bunch of tasty grapes was under $3. When we first arrived in Japan, these prices seemed expensive, but now that I know what fruit will cost in winter, I'm happy to pay the price I can get.

Change #3: Different seasonings
This is the biggest difference in our cooking. In the US we used a lot of olive oil, cayenne, basil, oregano and pepper. Here we tend to use soy sauce, mirin, sake, dashi, miso and oyster sauce to flavor our cooking. Oh, and I found shichimi (seven flavor seasoning) to replace cayenne. I pretty much use it in everything I cook to add some kick. Its great.

So what did we have for dinner last night?

The ingredients were Japanese, but the preparation was definitely of our own making. We got some mystery fish from the store and some sliced lotus root, shredded carrot and burdock root. We cooked the fish with a little oil, soy sauce, mirin and sake, got it slightly brown on each side and then pushed it to the side and cooked the vegetables in the remaining sauce. All of this was dumped unceremoniously on brown rice. It was delicious and very Japanese inspired, but I think my Japanese friends would probably be a little bit horrified at our version of their cuisine. Oh well.

Interestingly, while rice is a major, major staple in Japan (like, in movies, people who have been abroad cry when they taste real, Japanese white rice again) brown rice is difficult to find and rarely eaten. Most grocery stores stock a small bag of brown rice, but not the big bags like they do for white rice. I have one student who grew up eating brown rice, but the rest are aghast when I tell them that's what I choose to eat.

So how would a Japanese person prepare a dinner like the one I mentioned above? Good question. Having not had the benefit of a culinary-oriented home stay, I can't really say how all of the little side dishes are made. I do know that you usually have a small bowl of white rice with other small bowls - one with the fish, one with vegetables, one with something else, etc. I don't know how all of them are seasoned or how to make them myself. It also seems terribly time consuming (though I guess I wouldn't know). Maybe someday I will become good friends with someone who will show me how to do this all right. :)

Arima Hot springs

Sorry I haven't had pictures in a while. I will try to make up for it in coming posts.

I have managed to have some fun adventures.

Tuesday Russell and I bade Phil adieu and then headed into Osaka to spend a day together playing. We went to the Osaka State museum and saw a traveling exhibition of Renoir paintings. So far, we have been pretty lazy about museum crawling, so it was nice to do something different.

Wednesday, Russell got back to work and I went hiking with some friends. The plan was to go hiking and then go swing dancing in the evening. We weren't sure that was a good combination of activities, so we chose an easier hike - we rode the cable car to the top of Mount Rokko and then hiked down to the Hot Spring resort of Arima.

Arima is one of the three most famous Hot Spring Resorts in Japan (from what I hear.) There are well over 10 hot springs and many offer different natural minerals that are naturally occurring. There are two public hot springs and the rest are privately owned. The public hot springs cost about $6 and the private ones are around $15 and up. Considering the hype of this place, the prices seem incredibly cheap to me - but then, public baths and hot springs are plentiful and often only cost a few dollars per visit.

The hike down to the town was gorgeous. We didn't see any sign of civilization until we were practically on top of the town. There were a number of people out hiking, but the trail wasn't crowded. It was really steep, though. Two of my coworkers decided to hike out the way we came in, and my hat is off to them.

Arima itself is a small, outdated town - not the sort of place you go to be wowed by tradition or modernity - but it has a lot of tasty treats and everyone comes for the baths anyway. We went to the Gold Bath - one of the two public baths. It was clean and well appointed and held the large number of visitors easily. There were three baths - they started at 42 degrees Celsius (107.6F) and got hotter from there. Two of the pools were copper colored with natural minerals and the third was filtered to be clear water. It was a bit too toasty for me. I'm something of a heat wimp, it seems. I did manage to sit all the way in the hot spring after much wincing and preparation, but I couldn't stay in too long. Even so, after a thorough scrub and a hot (if fast) dip, I felt really good.

Ready for swing, I road the train back to town and grabbed Russell. He was a very good sport, especially considering he hurt his leg (again) trying to catch the train to Osaka. The lesson was easy for him and he danced with a number of people. He was cranky that he didn't know more steps, though, and very cranky that his leg hurt. I'm hoping we can research moves together during the week and he will keep going.

The day after he danced, though, he couldn't really walk. He was worried, so he went to the hospital. They took all sorts of X-rays and couldn't find any problems. (which is good, right?) so he has been resting and icing his leg. Hopefully he will be willing to try again next week. Finger are crossed.

Monday 3 May 2010

Flying home

Dear gentle reader,

I have had the privilege of being a guest at the Mull's residence for the past two weeks. Here is what I have learned:

Japan is not America. The people here have been living on these islands for about 32,000 years. Their language is quite different; their customs are somewhat different, and the place they have created is not the same as my American home, to say the least.

What does that mean? Japan is another example of what people can do with their lives -- it shows there is an alternative to your home town, to your customs, and that alternative is rich, aware, steadfast and complex.

It's another confirmation that we can shape our home town, that we can create the world we want to live in and be a part of -- granted, it may take a few hundred years of refinement, but such is life.

With that, here's to our dreams: Here's to being outside, eating good food, raising a good family, making art -- writing, dancing, music making -- traveling, experiencing other things, relaxing, building and relating -- to our lives.

Regards,
Phil