Thursday 20 September 2012

Saturday in Hong Kong

We didn't go out of our way to wake up early on Saturday, but we were scheduled to meet Lis at the hostel around 10am. I emailed her to let her know we would be late - maybe 11. Since we knew we would land in Hong Kong so late at night, we had chosen not to try and find our way to the hostel (two islands away) on public transportation that closed at 1am. It was a wise choice. Our first hotel was perfectly comfy, within taxi range of the airport and offered a lovely buffet breakfast.

After taking a little too much time over breakfast, we finally headed to the ferry to cut across to Hong Kong island. If you aren't familiar with Hong Kong, break out the maps. Its largely composed of Kowloon Peninsula, which connects to mainland China, Hong Kong island due south, Lantau Island due west and a bunch of much smaller islands scattered around. Our hotel was on the south side of Lantau Island so the ferry was the quickest way to cross over to Central - on the north side of Hong Kong Island.

Once we got to the ferry station in Central, we realized we had no idea how to get to our hostel. It was already 11:30 and I was sure Lis would be wondering where we were. We knew the name and address of our destination, but that hadn't been a ton of help the day before. Hoping the more urban setting was more likely to yield an English speaking taxi driver, we decided a taxi was our best best for a speedy arrival. Luckily, our driver spoke (and sang!) English. Unluckily, he did not know the address. He called it in to a central operator who gave him directions. Off we went.

The driver dropped us off on the side of the street and... we had no idea where to go. We saw a sign for Fortress Hill - and our hostel name included a reference to Fortress Hill - but other than that we were lost. We figure out that we were on the correct street but we had no idea which direction to go or what side of the busy four lane street to be on. Eventually we figured out the building numbering system and made our way to the correct building. Once inside we even saw a sign with the hostel name on it. We hunted around and found an elevator, but when we took it to the floor we wanted, we saw no hostel. No sign either.

We went back down and talked with the security guy. He didn't speak English, but he was enthusiastic to help. Before he would help us, though, he pulled out a well worn notebook and flipped to a detailed, hand drawn and carefully shaded world map on a back page and indicated Europe. We said no, we were from America. He was very happy. He then flipped to the front of his book with an equally elaborate map of the first floor of the building. It turned out we needed the elevator for the front of the block, not the back. He had little feet showing the path from his elevator to the front elevator. We thanked him and made our way to the unmarked metal door that led to the front elevators.

We got to the hostel around 12:00 and... no Lis. We checked in, dropped off bags and began to loiter. As far as I knew she had crossed the border into Hong Kong around 8am - and Hong Kong is not a big place once you get inside. I was getting worried. We decided to go wait on the street in case she was having as much trouble as we had had finding the place. We waited about two minutes and here she came.

She has an equally harrowing tail of crossing the border with a sea of mainland Chinese visitors followed by many train transfers, but she tells that story better than I can.

Once reunited, we dropped off bags and went to get lunch.

Lunch!

After wandering a few blocks, we found a noodle shop that seemed busy (a good sign, right?) so we wandered in. They seated us at a big round table with a family of three and a single woman. They brought over an English menu and we looked it over. For about US$4 we could get the noodle soup with the works (around 15 ingredients - possibly more), or for about $US2.50 we could select one topping and then add additional toppings for a fee. Lis, being the clever traveler, opted for the basic soup with two toppings. Russell and I went for the full shebang. It was more food than I have eaten in a very long time. It was absolutely delicious, but my tummy hurt a good long time after. I had no interest in dinner and very little interest in breakfast the next morning.

After lunch we went back to the hostel and lounged until we felt able to waddle once more. We used the time to read through our travel guides and make some plans for things to do (we had never gotten around to research). We decided to spend the evening on the south end of Kowloon (a major shopping / tourism district) and take the Star Ferry tour around the bay after dark. We headed out around 4:00 and spent the evening doing just that. We wandered around seeing the city and browsing through outdoor markets before heading to the waterfront for our ferry ride. The ride was beautiful and the weather was perfect. Cool and breezy but not humid or chilly.

My first impression of Hong Kong? To be honest, at this point, I felt like it was pretty much just a city. I'm not into shopping and not really impressed by city night views (thought this one is impressive as night views go). The public transportation (we had figured out the Metro at this point) was absolutely awesome - even better/easier to use/faster than trains in Japan, but I wasn't overly charmed yet.

Thankfully that changed on Sunday.

Apologies for the lack of pictures. I didn't have my camera on me until Sunday. I promise there are pictures to come. The photo at the top is the view from our hostel room.

A jaunt abroad

Russell and I FINALLY went on vacation in Asia but outside of Japan. Spurred on by a request to meet up from my friend Lis (who was in the middle of some serious globetrotting) we weighed our options.

The criteria:
- Outside Japan
- Cheap to get there
- Cheap to stay there
- No complicated visa (we're lazy - we'll try to get over it.)

Top choices:
 - Seoul, South Korea
 - Hong Kong
 - Taipei, Taiwan

I had just been to Taiwan (though not Taipei) for a conference and Russell and I are kind of saving Seoul for a serious swing dance weekend - its got to happen one of these days...

So Hong Kong it was. At first we thought the tickets would end up being too expensive. Note above that we are lazy and that also meant booking at the last minute. Then Russell remembered to check Peach - Japan's newly minted budget airline. $60 each way for the win. We bought our tickets and proceeded to forget to book a hotel room. Lis reminded us a couple of days before we left, so we scrambled and found a hostel with a private room for three (in-room bathroom and all!)

So how about that budget airline? It was spiffy, new and modern but still pretty much hell. Even for me, and I love flying. For those of you who travel, you've surely seen the kind of standard size airplane with three seats on one side an two on the other? We were in that size plane but it was three seats on each side. We had a middle and window seat. Russell had to share half of my leg room. Oh, and it left at 9pm - thus arriving at 1am (one hour time change). About 30 minutes in my tailbone hurt. Thankfully, Russell hunched form was shielding me from the passenger on the other side of him who was happily munching the remains of extra garlicky fried rice with tear inducing green onions on top.

After getting through customs (the most massive line I have ever seen, but not the longest wait by a long shot - yay efficiency) we got a taxi and showed him the address for our hotel. Unfortunately, our hotel name and address was in English, and he did not speak English. He flagged down a stewardess who read it to him. Silvermine Inn? He still didn't know. In Mui-Wo? When he heard the town name he seemed convinced of the destination and off we went. After about 20 minutes of hairpin curves up and back down a mountain (Hong Kong's got mountains!) we found ourselves in a rather remote looking town. The driver pointed us down a dark alley and tried his best to reassure us.

We went down the alley (the snuffling noise to the right was a feral cow) and sure enough, our hotel was by the water. The hotel manager was waiting for us and we successfully checked in. First obstacle overcome, we set our alarms and crashed for the night.