Arashiyama Adventure

A few weeks ago, over a lovely French dinner, our two fellow diners decided that it would be fun to go to Arashiyama. I didn't really know what Arashiyama was, but I knew it was close-ish to Kyoto and I am always up for an adventure.

Russell was invited as well, but he had band practice on the appointed day, so he opted out of the trip. It was just me, my former Japanese teacher and her friend.

We took the train to Kyoto and stopped there for lunch. We went up to the restaurant floor in the station and poked around for a good Japanese restaurant. We finally chose one that had a tasty looking bento lunch option. It turned out to be all vegetarian with soy milk and edamame croquettes, rice with beans mixed in, miso soup, a kind of side salad made from the soy bi-product that develops when you make soy milk (its delicious), a bit of fancy tofu, and some yube (made by taking the skin that develops on the top of the hot water where tofu is being made and piling the skins up until you get a kind of layered tofu-skin cake. It is also delicious.

It was one of the best lunches I've ever had in Japan. We were all pretty happy with ourselves after that.

Then, as we were on our way to Arashiyama, my friend spotted a poster advertising a special scenic train ride. She and her friend decided that the scenic train was not to be missed. We actually had to go to Arashiyama to get ON the scenic train, and we decided that instead of taking a full loop on the train, we would go half way and then take a boat back. This was turning into more of an adventure than I had imagined.

The train was fun. From what I could tell, the path the train was taking (along a river) was a main trade route over 400 years ago during the Edo period. At that time, the main mode of transportation was by boat. The boat drivers (using a rudder, a paddle and a pole) would take people down the river to Arashiyama and then some other poor souls had to pull the boats back up river. During the Meiji restoration, when foreigners were allowed into the country, one of the projects that were started was a set of tracks and at least carts, if not a train to expedite trade along this route. The carts (train?) were called "torokko" which was a foreign word presumably taken from "truck." Now, the train is called "torokko". It may have been a steam powered train, though if it was, it was very small scale.

The train ride was fun. The scenery was beautiful and only hinted at how beautiful it must be in autumn when the leaves turn colors. I took tons of pictures, but they really don't do it justice.

Once we got to the other end of the tracks, we took a taxi to the boat landing and headed back! The train ride had only been about 20 minutes, but the boat ride ended up being much longer and more exciting. The river was high that day, so we got some decent rapids. The drivers were very good, though, and there were plastic covers to keep us from getting wet. We were still dry on the other side (though had we been among the rafting groups heading down the river, I doubt the outcome would have been the same. Those groups looked pretty wet, and pretty happy about it.

The rudder guy was in the back, so we quickly forgot about him. The oarsman and the pole guy were in front. The guy using the pole would push off of big rocks and occasionally ground the pole and run along the front half of the boat to push us along and take some strain off of the oarsman. There were several more shallow areas with pretty weak current, so this was clearly a good strategy. Otherwise, the guy on the giant wooden oar was our main form of propulsion. He was also easily 60 and probably older. He joked with us the whole way and generally made the trip awesome. He had a quip for everything and shared a lot of history of the river. I was sad I didn't understand more, but what I did understand was really cool.

For example, he pointed out a number of rocks along the way that were famous for looking like various animals. He also pointed out some defined holes in the rocks, which were apparently from 400 years of pole men ramming their poles in the exact same spot. Now, it appears to be a kind of sport for the pole men to try and hit the little holes as they go by. There were also some rocks we passed that had gouges in them from the ropes that used to be used for hauling boats back upstream.

And of course, it was also absolutely beautiful scenery.

Once we got back to Arashiyama (at least an hour and easily more than that later) it was about 4:30. We took pictures of Togetsukyo bridge (famous, though I never heard why). After that, we decided to stop at a cafe and have some traditional desserts. I had the zenzai with yam ice cream in it. zenzai is the sweat bean soup with little mochi dumplings in it. The ice cream was not a traditional addition, but it was tasty nonetheless. This was accompanied by some chilled matcha green tea.

After the break, we headed to our destination, Tenryuji Temple. Unfortunately, it was closed, so we kept going and took an evening stroll down a famous bamboo grove path. Apparently it is the most famous bamboo grove in Japan. It was really cool. I will have to go back earlier in the day to see the grove with sun poking through. Tenryuji Temple is also a World Heritage Site, so I want to make sure to get back and see it during open hours.

While we didn't get the full effect of Arashiyama, we had a great day out. I also have lots of new ideas for future adventures.