Burgers and Whiskey

Oh yes. You read correctly. Japan just got even better!

So a bit of context...

Russell leaves for HIS trip home to Oregon next Friday. Since this was my last weekend with him (and a three day weekend, no less) I wanted to make the most of it and spend some quality time together. I shared as much with Russell, who seemed game. Neither of us really knew what to do, though. Our first thought was to got camping. Camping in Japan, from what we have been told, means bringing your own food to a cabin located a tasteful distance away from a bus line. It may not involve a backpack - or a tent - or lack of electricity - but its mildly rustic and getting out of the apartment sounded good. We started looking for "camping" online. Unfortunately, this is something we need to spend more time figuring out. We were able to find car camping, but no cabin camping. We will keep looking.

In the meantime, we got a nice drenching from a typhoon that was passing by - so camping wasn't sounding all that neat anyway. The weekend was thankfully, dry, but we really didn't have anything planned. To make matters worse, I got to spend Saturday morning humming around my computer, hoping my contact at Oregon State would actually contact me to discuss what has happened since our last meeting (he cancelled the scheduled meeting and has been elusive ever since). Damn.

Once it became obvious that he had gone home (and it was well past breakfast and lunch time for me) I got cranky.

Russell to the rescue.

In looking for cabins, Russell had discovered some other points of interest. One of which was a festival happening in Osaka. Another, was a delighful eatery on the way. He was very excited (and very secretive). I played along and followed after him. We walked to the train. No food yet. I was getting skeptical due to my empty tummy, but I kept going. We arrived at a random stop on the train line. Still no food. A nice young lady offered us a coupon for a special at a local burger joint. It was called "Healthy Burger" Couldn't we go there? No. Russell was on a mission.

I was starting to be sick of Russell's mission. I was pretty sure the trek wasn't worth it. We walked and walked and then discovered we had gone too far. We walked and walked back. I was not feeling terrible charitable at this point. We went up to a lean-to that was billowing smoke. This was the place. To its credit, there was a group of folks standing outside. Russell checked, and they were all waiting for to-go orders. This was a burger shack. Not just any burger shack, either. This was apparently the best place in Japan to get a decent burger. They even served Hawaiian micro-brews and coke in glass bottles. The menu consisted of "regular" or "large" and a variety of beverage options. I went with Regular and Russell with Large. We sat down at the wooden bar inside (which seated 6 and was only sheltered from the outdoors by a sheet of plastic and some woven grass) and took a long swig of my not-from-corn syrup- coke. Things were looking up. We started staring not-so-covertly at the ladies next to us who were making messes of themselves trying to eat the enormous sloppy burgers that had just arrived. Things were definitely looking up.

Our burgers arrived shortly and they were amazing. A real beef patty, made by hand on the spot. with some sort of Japanese style barbeque sauce, sauted onions, a thick slick of tomato, lettuce, mayonaise and a toasted bun. I'm not typically a fan of any sort of goo on my burgers, but the flavors were all lovely and the burger was delicious. It was also impossible to eat gracefully. The thick slice of tomato, in particular, kept slipping away from my bite and pushing the meat with it. The first few bite were largely lettuce and bun. Eventually I managed, though. It was a damn fine burger. Russell managed to get sauce on his cheek, nose and temple.

It took us about 20-30 minutes to get there (actually 30-40 after wandering past it the first time) but it was worth it. We left with big smiles on our faces and full intentions to return. Preferably with friends.

Our next plan was to head to the outskirts of Osaka to the Suntory Whiskey distillery. (I mean, why not, right?) While we were checking the route, though, we discovered that the distillery was only open for about 45 more minutes and we were at least 30 minutes away. We decided it was impossible and headed home instead. This was probably for the best because Russell has been nursing a running injury (from running to catch a train, not running a 5K - alas) and was starting to be finished with the all the walking. While we were on the train, though, he did some more research and found a bar in Sannomiya (the center of Kobe) that specialized in Whiskey - both Japanese and International.

Now, to explain the interest in Whiskey, it is important to note that Japan just won the "Best Whiskey in the World" label from a whiskey authority. The whiskey that won even beat out all the traditional Scotch Whiskeys from Scotland. This had become a bit of a legend that Russell was chasing. The distillery we had been heading to is not the home of the best whiskey in the world, but rather its rival. Suntory is known as a fine whiskey maker as well - if not as decorated as Nikka from Hokkaido.

In any case, we had whiskey on the brain, so we headed to Sannomiya and this whiskey bar Russell had found on the Internet. It was in the basement of a building and when we got out of the elevator we were greeted by a long brick wall with a door decorated with wood from what we believe to be casks (not verified). Upon entering we found a room that was only big enough for a long bar, a bartender in the back, and full wall shelving going all the way around the room covered in all manner of whiskeys. There were two men at the bar and we took the two seats at the far end. Russell ordered the whiskey on special (coincidentally from the Hokkaido distillery that he had been wanting to try). I am not known to revel in Whiskeys of any sort, so finding me a suitable beverage was a bit more of a challenge. I wanted to try a whiskey, but I didn't know where to start. The conversation went something like this:

R: Well, what do you want?
J: I don't know.
R: What kind of Whiskey do you like?
J: I don't really like whiskey.
R: Well, I think you liked Glennfidditch.
J: No, sir. I remember Glennfidditch. That stuff was awful.

At this point the bartender, who had procured Russell's drink and a wide variety of snacks (nuts, rice snacks and some delicate ham and cucumber sandwich squares) started to look on in anticipation of another order.

B: And for the lady?
R: Uh, we don't really know, but but maybe something like a Glennfiddich?
J: #giving "NO" eyes#
B: Would she like a whiskey that is easy to drink, do you think?
R: Uh. yes, please. What would you recommend?
B: I have an idea. And would you like it straight, with water or on the rocks.
J: On the rocks, please.

Russell was the main contact for this exchange because I was clearly not the more competent Japanese speaker. Russell later launched into a conversation about Gaelic with the bartender (who had spent some time in Scotland) and one of the regulars sitting to our right.

In the meantime I tried some of Russell's whiskey - which I actually liked quite a bit. My own was exactly what I ordered, and, well, whiskey. Turns out the "easy drinking" kind of whiskey is not my style. Being able to compare, though, did give me new appreciation for the spirit. I may not be a lost cause yet.