Yesterday was election day here in Japan. As many of you may have read in the news, Japan changed leading political party for the first time since the present government system was established after WWII. Not only did the party change, they were crushed by the opposition. Why? Economic crisis, record unemployment, a prime minister who had no common sense when speaking, and a charismatic opposing leader.
Actually, in spite of the fact that the Obama administration was not altogether keen on the party that has now taken power, I think they partly rode into power on Obama's tailcoats. They used a very similar slogan of change and I heard a lot of people liken the situation to the recent American election.
The cool thing about being around during an election, is that you get to learn something about another country's politics. I in no way can claim to actually understand the Japanese system, but here's what I think may be true based on various things I've heard. Keep in mind, the following could all be hooey.
From what we can tell, you do not vote for prime minister when you vote in Japan, you vote for a political party. Each political party puts forward a certain number of names (100? something like that) in rank order. The guy at the top will presumably become prime minister, but during the term, he is free to step down and make way for another PM selected from within the party by the party. The other ranking party folk fill in the - what? - cabinet? senate? This is where things break down for me.
In any case, the only party to ever win an election in Japan just lost 3-1 to a different party. Early on, the voting was something like 144 to 7. Russell's conversation partner was over at our place last night, and pointed out that its probably not good for Japan to have given this new party quite THAT much power.
It will be interesting to see what comes next.
Monday, 31 August 2009
The new arrival
Yes, the day has finally come.
Russell and I are now the proud owners of a washing machine. Its gorgeous.
When we first arrived in Japan, there was a laundromat just around the corner. It was a bit sketchy and not so clean, but it was so darn close that we felt no reason to obtain yet another heavy, bulky appliance that we would have to find a home for someday when we returned States-side.
About two weeks after we arrived, the building that the laundromat was in was torn down. Now, we had to walk 10 minutes down a steep hill to a different laundromat. This one was cleaner, to be sure, but there were only three machines, so it was quite possible to find yourself waiting for other people to finish their laundry before you could do yours. Actually, considering there were only three machines, we had this problem surprisingly few times - but the threat was always hovering.
In addition, once the laundry was wet and HEAVY we had to haul it back up the steep hill. Because this process was so darn much fun, we often waited a little longer than we should have to actually do laundry. This didn't help the weight issue. Oh, and don't forget the heat and humidity. Laundry days rocked.
About two weeks into this new arrangement I decided I wanted a washing machine. Russell insisted that it would be too hard to get rid of. Then we discovered that Recycle shops will pick things up for you. Recycle shops are used goods shops. You can get all sorts of things there - often appliances, furniture and sometimes cloths. In fact, that was where we got our stove top and refrigerator. Every Friday and Saturday we hear trucks with loop tracks calling for refrigerators, computers, game consoles, motorcycles, etc. There are also businesses whose job it is to come pick up all your junk and find a home for it. Problem solved.
No, Russell worried that it would cost too much.
Then we saw brand new ones at a store for about $120. Considering a load cost $3, and we were doing 1-2 loads a week, that was starting to look like the more economical way to go.
After a while ,Russell agreed that we could get a machine, but he somehow never had time to go with me. I left for Oregon crossing my fingers there would be a washing machine when I returned.
No luck, there. However, whether because he finally had time to go shopping, or because I held his Oregon micro-brews hostage until he helped me, Russell scored a fine, fine washing machine which now lives on our back porch. In fact, once he found a recycle shop he figured the time from spotting the machine on the sidewalk to having it installed at home was no more than 15 minutes. We have done two loads of laundry so far and are looking forward to the third.
Oh, by the way. Yes, keeping your washing machine on the veranda is perfectly normal. Some apartments have special insets where you can put a washing machine inside, but in general the machines seem to be kept outside. My best guess for this is that it decreases the chance of water damage indoors - which I imagine is quite a headache when you live in a fifteen story condo high-rise. Its also handy to have the washing machine right next to where you hang your laundry.
And yes, Russell enjoyed his beer.
Russell and I are now the proud owners of a washing machine. Its gorgeous.
When we first arrived in Japan, there was a laundromat just around the corner. It was a bit sketchy and not so clean, but it was so darn close that we felt no reason to obtain yet another heavy, bulky appliance that we would have to find a home for someday when we returned States-side.
About two weeks after we arrived, the building that the laundromat was in was torn down. Now, we had to walk 10 minutes down a steep hill to a different laundromat. This one was cleaner, to be sure, but there were only three machines, so it was quite possible to find yourself waiting for other people to finish their laundry before you could do yours. Actually, considering there were only three machines, we had this problem surprisingly few times - but the threat was always hovering.
In addition, once the laundry was wet and HEAVY we had to haul it back up the steep hill. Because this process was so darn much fun, we often waited a little longer than we should have to actually do laundry. This didn't help the weight issue. Oh, and don't forget the heat and humidity. Laundry days rocked.
About two weeks into this new arrangement I decided I wanted a washing machine. Russell insisted that it would be too hard to get rid of. Then we discovered that Recycle shops will pick things up for you. Recycle shops are used goods shops. You can get all sorts of things there - often appliances, furniture and sometimes cloths. In fact, that was where we got our stove top and refrigerator. Every Friday and Saturday we hear trucks with loop tracks calling for refrigerators, computers, game consoles, motorcycles, etc. There are also businesses whose job it is to come pick up all your junk and find a home for it. Problem solved.
No, Russell worried that it would cost too much.
Then we saw brand new ones at a store for about $120. Considering a load cost $3, and we were doing 1-2 loads a week, that was starting to look like the more economical way to go.
After a while ,Russell agreed that we could get a machine, but he somehow never had time to go with me. I left for Oregon crossing my fingers there would be a washing machine when I returned.
No luck, there. However, whether because he finally had time to go shopping, or because I held his Oregon micro-brews hostage until he helped me, Russell scored a fine, fine washing machine which now lives on our back porch. In fact, once he found a recycle shop he figured the time from spotting the machine on the sidewalk to having it installed at home was no more than 15 minutes. We have done two loads of laundry so far and are looking forward to the third.
Oh, by the way. Yes, keeping your washing machine on the veranda is perfectly normal. Some apartments have special insets where you can put a washing machine inside, but in general the machines seem to be kept outside. My best guess for this is that it decreases the chance of water damage indoors - which I imagine is quite a headache when you live in a fifteen story condo high-rise. Its also handy to have the washing machine right next to where you hang your laundry.
And yes, Russell enjoyed his beer.
Monday, 10 August 2009
Nature doin' its darndest
Hi all,
In case you hear any scary news reports about earthquakes and or typhoons hitting Japan, please rest assured that neither have directly impacted Russell and I.
The earthquake hit off the coast of Tokyo around 8 pm yesterday. Apparently one person in our city reported feeling it, but no one else (including Russell or I) did. It was a fairly big quake but it was focused out in the ocean. I don't think there was any damage in Tokyo.
The typhoon hit closer to home. In our prefecture, even! The last two days have been pretty soggy, but the rain was never too heavy. It just felt like more rainy season here. On the opposite end of the prefecture, though, they got hit really hard. Apparently the water was up to people's necks and cars were floating away. If you see any disaster footage coming out of Japan, that's what you'll be seeing. I'm not sure the international news will be so interested, though.
In any case. Russell and I are totally fine. Nothing to worry about there.
In case you hear any scary news reports about earthquakes and or typhoons hitting Japan, please rest assured that neither have directly impacted Russell and I.
The earthquake hit off the coast of Tokyo around 8 pm yesterday. Apparently one person in our city reported feeling it, but no one else (including Russell or I) did. It was a fairly big quake but it was focused out in the ocean. I don't think there was any damage in Tokyo.
The typhoon hit closer to home. In our prefecture, even! The last two days have been pretty soggy, but the rain was never too heavy. It just felt like more rainy season here. On the opposite end of the prefecture, though, they got hit really hard. Apparently the water was up to people's necks and cars were floating away. If you see any disaster footage coming out of Japan, that's what you'll be seeing. I'm not sure the international news will be so interested, though.
In any case. Russell and I are totally fine. Nothing to worry about there.
Friday, 7 August 2009
My students
I generally avoid talking about work - and I try (less successfully) to avoid mentioning my coworkers. That is on purpose. I am all too aware that this blog is public, and I don't want to say anything that I'll regret later (or that will be found by my students someday).
That said, I have been collecting cute interactions with my students for a post, and one such interaction today has finally warranted some writing.
I'll start with the smaller stories.
Story number one:
I was lucky and was placed teaching the two upper second-year classes. That means the overachievers. Even amongst the overachievers, though, there are a few charming but lazy students - one of which spent the first half of the term generally arriving an hour late for every class. He would always also make a nice loud entrance and come to the front to ask what I had missed. One of the first times he tried this, he started to ask what he had missed when he suddenly stopped mid-sentence. The smile fell off his face and his eyes got big. He leaned towards me just a bit and said: "You have yellow eyes!" He returned to his seat quietly.
Story number two:
For this story to make sense, I should mention that I got my hair cut last week. It had been getting pretty shaggy because I was nervous about navagating a salon with my terrible Japanese. It went fine, though, and I am newly trimmed.
The other day we had a send-off party for the travel abroad students. About fifty of them will be heading off to several schools around the U.S. for the second semester of the year. After two hours of speeches, the students had time to mingle and talk with their teachers, take pictures, and generally grin nervously. I had to teach special summer classes in the morning, so I missed most of the speeches, but I did arrive for the last speech where I was spotted and invited to give the surprise last speech (I'm one of the study abroad advisor's, so all the students know me well). I figured after two hours of listening to teachers, the students would appreciate some brevity. I wished them well, said a few things and that was that. Later, during the mingling part, one of the students who has been in my overachiever classes came up and said, "You're speech was short... oh! Like your hair!"
Last story (and definite best)
Today, I was putting together final grades. There are a few students who are not currently passing because they still need to make up some absences or retake final tests. One such student ended the term in need of one make up-assignment and a test re-take. I had run into him in the hall last week, and had informed him of both. He had forgotten the make-up assignment but he promised he would bring it by today and do the re-take his test that was offered earlier this week. At 4:00 he still hadn't brought his assignment. The re-take test day had already passed, but as I was sorting out grades I realized that I had never gotten his second test, either. I asked about it and was informed that he never turned up for the re-take. This gets complicated with school politics, but my boss and I finally decided that we would give him the chance to finish both by the final test re-take day on August 22nd. Then I realized he would be in Oregon (with me) on August 22nd. Perfect.
In a very tired, withdrawn way, my boss and I decided to go ahead and let him take the test in Oregon. (If he fails the class, he isn't allowed to do study abroad - and that just seems cruel at this stage). I sent him and email and explained. The school is closed next week for mandatory holidays, so there isn't any other time for him to take the test before we leave. This all made me grumpy for the afternoon. Why hadn't he just come to his make-up test? Geez!
While I was making a copy of the test for him to take later, who should show up? The afore-mentioned student came racing in the door, out of breath, with his make-up assignment very thoroughly done (and I had accidentally given him a reading that was way over his head, so his effort did win him some bonus points). I took his assignment, read it over and then explained: he now had the attendance mark he needed to pass, but his test score was so low, he still wasn't passing the class. I told him that the school was closed next week and there was no way to give him the test. I also explained that I had decided to give him one last chance to re-sit the test in Oregon. "Oregon?" he asked. Yes. Oregon. I told him I was sorry he would have to take the test in Oregon, but he had better study really hard and make sure he got an A on the test next time he took it. He kind of nodded yes, but had a funny look on his face. I went back to copying the test for him and he went over to talk to my boss (who taught him last year). I eavesdropped on him as he asked her to explain what I had just said. Apparently all he had understood was something like:
"bbbbb b b bbbbbb bbbbbbb attendance bbbb bbbbbbb bb bb pass bb bb b bbbbbbb test bbbbbbbbb low bbbbbbbbb wasn't pass bbbbbbb bbbbb b b Oregon b bbbbb bb sorry bbbbbbbbb."
He was apparently pretty sure he had just been told he wouldn't be going to Oregon.
My boss hadn't been listening to our discussion, so she asked me to come over and explain to her, which I did (much to the embarrassment of my student who had just been trying to act cool, like he understood). I explained that he had to take the test in Oregon, which my boss translated for him.
The look of pure relief on his face kind of made up for the hassle. He vehemently swore he would study his rear-end off.
I love my students.
That said, I have been collecting cute interactions with my students for a post, and one such interaction today has finally warranted some writing.
I'll start with the smaller stories.
Story number one:
I was lucky and was placed teaching the two upper second-year classes. That means the overachievers. Even amongst the overachievers, though, there are a few charming but lazy students - one of which spent the first half of the term generally arriving an hour late for every class. He would always also make a nice loud entrance and come to the front to ask what I had missed. One of the first times he tried this, he started to ask what he had missed when he suddenly stopped mid-sentence. The smile fell off his face and his eyes got big. He leaned towards me just a bit and said: "You have yellow eyes!" He returned to his seat quietly.
Story number two:
For this story to make sense, I should mention that I got my hair cut last week. It had been getting pretty shaggy because I was nervous about navagating a salon with my terrible Japanese. It went fine, though, and I am newly trimmed.
The other day we had a send-off party for the travel abroad students. About fifty of them will be heading off to several schools around the U.S. for the second semester of the year. After two hours of speeches, the students had time to mingle and talk with their teachers, take pictures, and generally grin nervously. I had to teach special summer classes in the morning, so I missed most of the speeches, but I did arrive for the last speech where I was spotted and invited to give the surprise last speech (I'm one of the study abroad advisor's, so all the students know me well). I figured after two hours of listening to teachers, the students would appreciate some brevity. I wished them well, said a few things and that was that. Later, during the mingling part, one of the students who has been in my overachiever classes came up and said, "You're speech was short... oh! Like your hair!"
Last story (and definite best)
Today, I was putting together final grades. There are a few students who are not currently passing because they still need to make up some absences or retake final tests. One such student ended the term in need of one make up-assignment and a test re-take. I had run into him in the hall last week, and had informed him of both. He had forgotten the make-up assignment but he promised he would bring it by today and do the re-take his test that was offered earlier this week. At 4:00 he still hadn't brought his assignment. The re-take test day had already passed, but as I was sorting out grades I realized that I had never gotten his second test, either. I asked about it and was informed that he never turned up for the re-take. This gets complicated with school politics, but my boss and I finally decided that we would give him the chance to finish both by the final test re-take day on August 22nd. Then I realized he would be in Oregon (with me) on August 22nd. Perfect.
In a very tired, withdrawn way, my boss and I decided to go ahead and let him take the test in Oregon. (If he fails the class, he isn't allowed to do study abroad - and that just seems cruel at this stage). I sent him and email and explained. The school is closed next week for mandatory holidays, so there isn't any other time for him to take the test before we leave. This all made me grumpy for the afternoon. Why hadn't he just come to his make-up test? Geez!
While I was making a copy of the test for him to take later, who should show up? The afore-mentioned student came racing in the door, out of breath, with his make-up assignment very thoroughly done (and I had accidentally given him a reading that was way over his head, so his effort did win him some bonus points). I took his assignment, read it over and then explained: he now had the attendance mark he needed to pass, but his test score was so low, he still wasn't passing the class. I told him that the school was closed next week and there was no way to give him the test. I also explained that I had decided to give him one last chance to re-sit the test in Oregon. "Oregon?" he asked. Yes. Oregon. I told him I was sorry he would have to take the test in Oregon, but he had better study really hard and make sure he got an A on the test next time he took it. He kind of nodded yes, but had a funny look on his face. I went back to copying the test for him and he went over to talk to my boss (who taught him last year). I eavesdropped on him as he asked her to explain what I had just said. Apparently all he had understood was something like:
"bbbbb b b bbbbbb bbbbbbb attendance bbbb bbbbbbb bb bb pass bb bb b bbbbbbb test bbbbbbbbb low bbbbbbbbb wasn't pass bbbbbbb bbbbb b b Oregon b bbbbb bb sorry bbbbbbbbb."
He was apparently pretty sure he had just been told he wouldn't be going to Oregon.
My boss hadn't been listening to our discussion, so she asked me to come over and explain to her, which I did (much to the embarrassment of my student who had just been trying to act cool, like he understood). I explained that he had to take the test in Oregon, which my boss translated for him.
The look of pure relief on his face kind of made up for the hassle. He vehemently swore he would study his rear-end off.
I love my students.
Sunday, 2 August 2009
Watching the Waistline
Or not, as the case may be...
When we first got to Japan, we were both enthusiastic about trying everything new and a little homesick (and therefore seeking comfort food) so we basically pigged-out. After a few weeks of that, we got a bit more under control. We tried to avoid the French bakeries (most of the time) an ate at home more. I also started walking to work - at least one way most days - and Russell started running. As the weather got hotter I abandoned walking and started running at night with Russell. We were both pretty proud of ourselves.
Unfortunately, having guests kind of put the brakes on the whole healthy living thing. We wanted to share all of the most tasty treats Japan had to offer, and we didn't want to lose any time with our friends while we had them, so the running was put on hold.
With all of this in mind, I went out to "coffee" with my Japanese teacher after our Japanese lesson together on Saturday. She has explained to me that going to "coffee" in Japan (at least if you are a girl) means going to eat cake. The coffee is completely optional. Please note exhibit A. I had the cranberry custard cake. It looks like cheesecake, but it was a much less sweet custard on the bottom with lovely tart cranberries in the top. It was delicious. I immediately regretted it. Well, no, thats not really true. I probably should have regretted it, but I can't honestly say that I did.
I did, however, complain about my new non-exercising, decadent dessert eating ways with Russell. Being the ever supportive spouse that he is, he worked out a solution for me. Note exhibit B. I will have you note that "Zero: Tasty Draft" is truth in advertising at its best. It is truly zero tasty. I think I will opt instead for a little renewed self control.
When we first got to Japan, we were both enthusiastic about trying everything new and a little homesick (and therefore seeking comfort food) so we basically pigged-out. After a few weeks of that, we got a bit more under control. We tried to avoid the French bakeries (most of the time) an ate at home more. I also started walking to work - at least one way most days - and Russell started running. As the weather got hotter I abandoned walking and started running at night with Russell. We were both pretty proud of ourselves.
Unfortunately, having guests kind of put the brakes on the whole healthy living thing. We wanted to share all of the most tasty treats Japan had to offer, and we didn't want to lose any time with our friends while we had them, so the running was put on hold.
With all of this in mind, I went out to "coffee" with my Japanese teacher after our Japanese lesson together on Saturday. She has explained to me that going to "coffee" in Japan (at least if you are a girl) means going to eat cake. The coffee is completely optional. Please note exhibit A. I had the cranberry custard cake. It looks like cheesecake, but it was a much less sweet custard on the bottom with lovely tart cranberries in the top. It was delicious. I immediately regretted it. Well, no, thats not really true. I probably should have regretted it, but I can't honestly say that I did. 
I did, however, complain about my new non-exercising, decadent dessert eating ways with Russell. Being the ever supportive spouse that he is, he worked out a solution for me. Note exhibit B. I will have you note that "Zero: Tasty Draft" is truth in advertising at its best. It is truly zero tasty. I think I will opt instead for a little renewed self control.
Fireworks in Kobe
'Tis the fireworks season in Japan.
Normally by now the rainy season has given in to the "oh my god, hot" season in which the 80-90% humidity gets punched up with 90-100 degree heat. This is what I am truly afraid of. So far, though, the rainy season - which started late and has really only recently seemed like the kind of deluge I had imagined - has run late. Between rain storms, the weather is warm and humid, but not unbearably hot. My Japanese teacher - who is simply unable to imagine the weather being hot into October, has instead decided that if the rainy season goes late, it means maybe there won't BE an "oh my god, hot" season. I'm more of a pessimist.
In any case, by now it is suppose to be terribly hot, but not rainy. The perfect time to plan city festivals and fireworks. It is common for cities to have their own fireworks displays during the month of August, and some people will travel around to see what different cities come up with for the year. Unfortunately, with the economic downturn, many cities (especially smaller ones) have had to cancel their fireworks for the year. Not so, Kobe. No, Kobe decided to fill the fireworks gap and offer 2,000 more fireworks than last year. My Japanese teacher and I plotted together to determine the best vantage point. The trick is to find somewhere close enough that you have a good view, but far enough that you can go right before the show starts and still be able to see anything at all. If you want to be in the best viewing place (Harborland) you pretty much have to stake claim to your spot in the morning and stay all day. If, like us, you want to have a nice leisurely sushi dinner
Wait, wait. Let me tell you about the sushi dinner....
As Gwen and Nicole discovered during their stay, it is actually quite easy to live in Japan and never eat sushi. Russell and I had only really been to one sushi restaurant in four months before last night (not including the sushi take-out you can get by the station or the pre-made sushi you get at the grocery store - those are fine, but nothing to write home about). Last night was something to write home about. So without any further ado... My Japanese teacher knew of this restaurant that specialized in HUMONGOUS slabs of meat on tiny little balls of rice. I have had humongous slabs of fish before and it doesn't always mean it is tastier than the more traditional size. In this case, though, it was awesome. We took a picture of the shrimp with a 100 yen coin for scale. A 100 yen coin is roughly the size of a quarter. Check these beauties out! All of the sushi was super, super tasty. We only had four pieces each and I felt like I could roll home. Five stars, my friends, five stars.
To get back to the main event, though, if you are planning to eat and then head over just in time to catch first burst of color... well, then you compromise.
We finally decided to try taking the train out to the island where I work and sit on the park along the bank facing Harborland. I had heard that the bridge had a solid traffic jam the year before, so we made plans to leave early and walk back (to avoid hitting public transportation at the same time as the mob). We got to the school no problem, but all of the prime spots were taken. We ended up sitting on a sidewalk curb behind a cement barricade. We were comfortable, but we couldn't see everything perfectly. It was still fun, though.
There was, naturally, street food set up for the throngs of people along the banks of the bay. Russell couldn't resist. In attempt to be healthy he paid 200 yen (~$2.00) for a cucumber on a stick. He thought maybe it would be a fancy cucumber on a stick for that price, but no. It was just a cucumber on a stick. We kind of gave him a hard time about it. He refused to show regret, though and instead decided he would keep the stick so he could recreate the experience at home.
Finally it was fireworks time. We were too lazy to stand through the entire 45 minute display, so instead we stayed seated on our curb and were content to miss a few of the lower-lying explosions. It was still beautiful and fun. Another fun part about fireworks in Japan is that young people (mostly just the girls, but sometimes the guys too) wear the traditional yukata. This looks like a kimono to a westerner, but it weighs about 20 pounds less and is far more comfortable in summer. The men's Yukata looks something like cotton wrap pajamas and is generally less gussied up than the yukata. I didn't get any pictures (my apologies). I will try to make it out to the Osaka fireworks next week and do a better job documenting. We did have a bit of a rain scare half way through the show, but it was an extremely short cloudburst and otherwise the night was dry.
Normally by now the rainy season has given in to the "oh my god, hot" season in which the 80-90% humidity gets punched up with 90-100 degree heat. This is what I am truly afraid of. So far, though, the rainy season - which started late and has really only recently seemed like the kind of deluge I had imagined - has run late. Between rain storms, the weather is warm and humid, but not unbearably hot. My Japanese teacher - who is simply unable to imagine the weather being hot into October, has instead decided that if the rainy season goes late, it means maybe there won't BE an "oh my god, hot" season. I'm more of a pessimist. 
In any case, by now it is suppose to be terribly hot, but not rainy. The perfect time to plan city festivals and fireworks. It is common for cities to have their own fireworks displays during the month of August, and some people will travel around to see what different cities come up with for the year. Unfortunately, with the economic downturn, many cities (especially smaller ones) have had to cancel their fireworks for the year. Not so, Kobe. No, Kobe decided to fill the fireworks gap and offer 2,000 more fireworks than last year. My Japanese teacher and I plotted together to determine the best vantage point. The trick is to find somewhere close enough that you have a good view, but far enough that you can go right before the show starts and still be able to see anything at all. If you want to be in the best viewing place (Harborland) you pretty much have to stake claim to your spot in the morning and stay all day. If, like us, you want to have a nice leisurely sushi dinnerWait, wait. Let me tell you about the sushi dinner....
As Gwen and Nicole discovered during their stay, it is actually quite easy to live in Japan and never eat sushi. Russell and I had only really been to one sushi restaurant in four months before last night (not including the sushi take-out you can get by the station or the pre-made sushi you get at the grocery store - those are fine, but nothing to write home about). Last night was something to write home about. So without any further ado... My Japanese teacher knew of this restaurant that specialized in HUMONGOUS slabs of meat on tiny little balls of rice. I have had humongous slabs of fish before and it doesn't always mean it is tastier than the more traditional size. In this case, though, it was awesome. We took a picture of the shrimp with a 100 yen coin for scale. A 100 yen coin is roughly the size of a quarter. Check these beauties out! All of the sushi was super, super tasty. We only had four pieces each and I felt like I could roll home. Five stars, my friends, five stars. To get back to the main event, though, if you are planning to eat and then head over just in time to catch first burst of color... well, then you compromise.
We finally decided to try taking the train out to the island where I work and sit on the park along the bank facing Harborland. I had heard that the bridge had a solid traffic jam the year before, so we made plans to leave early and walk back (to avoid hitting public transportation at the same time as the mob). We got to the school no problem, but all of the prime spots were taken. We ended up sitting on a sidewalk curb behind a cement barricade. We were comfortable, but we couldn't see everything perfectly. It was still fun, though. 
There was, naturally, street food set up for the throngs of people along the banks of the bay. Russell couldn't resist. In attempt to be healthy he paid 200 yen (~$2.00) for a cucumber on a stick. He thought maybe it would be a fancy cucumber on a stick for that price, but no. It was just a cucumber on a stick. We kind of gave him a hard time about it. He refused to show regret, though and instead decided he would keep the stick so he could recreate the experience at home. 
Finally it was fireworks time. We were too lazy to stand through the entire 45 minute display, so instead we stayed seated on our curb and were content to miss a few of the lower-lying explosions. It was still beautiful and fun. Another fun part about fireworks in Japan is that young people (mostly just the girls, but sometimes the guys too) wear the traditional yukata. This looks like a kimono to a westerner, but it weighs about 20 pounds less and is far more comfortable in summer. The men's Yukata looks something like cotton wrap pajamas and is generally less gussied up than the yukata. I didn't get any pictures (my apologies). I will try to make it out to the Osaka fireworks next week and do a better job documenting. We did have a bit of a rain scare half way through the show, but it was an extremely short cloudburst and otherwise the night was dry.
Last Weekend with Nicole and Gwen
Last weekend I had to go in to work, so I only got Sunday to play with Gwen and Nicole. We decided to make the most of it, and headed off to Kyoto nice and early. Russell had already taken them to Kyoto earlier in their stay, but Kyoto is one of those places you can go back to many times and never see it all. I invited my Japanese teacher to go with us, and she invited her friend (who used to be her English conversation teacher, as it turns out). 
Our first stop was Kiyomizudera - probably the top most recommended temple in Kyoto. We had managed to miss it three times, but this time it was the central goal of the trip. We took the bus to the stop at the bottom of the hill and walked up a long windy road lined with tourist shops, quality goods and restaurants. It would have been quite interesting if it hadn't also been down pouring at the time. We were doing our best not to get drenched as we made our way up the hill.
The thing with Japanese rainy season (and this one got off to a late start and is now making up for it) is that the skies tend to open up for maybe 10 minutes, and then the weather can be lovely again. Sometimes there is a real storm that lasts, but those mostly seem to happen at night. Luckily, this was one of the short-lived variety and by the time we arrived at the temple, the sun was out humidity building once again. We took some pictures outside the temple and then headed in.
The nice thing about Kyomizudera is that once you are inside there is quite a lot of ground to cover and quite a few things to see and do. You are not just waiting in a long lone to see a statue and then waiting in a long line to leave. There was the large metal post that men were trying, unsuccessfully to lift. Russell followed suit. Then, there was the huge wooden overhang with the view of Kyoto below and the lush green mountains above. Next, we followed a path down through gorgeous greenery to a incense rich shrine where people were tossing in their coins, ringing the bell and then praying.
We continued along the path to another famous attraction at the temple: the three water fountains. Its not altogether clear where the water is coming from - I assume it is from a natural spring or stream that simply splits into three spouts before cascading over the water-drinking dais. To participate, you get in line, buy a personal keepsake cup if you so desire or just use one of the sterilized metal cups provided and then stick your cup under the waterfall and drink. The legend (which a number of signs around the fountains refuted) is that each spout of water offers a different kind of wish: long life, health, and wisdom. The website I had read before going said that you can drink from all three, but many people worry that doing so will seem greedy, so they choose only two to drink from. We had considered our options thoroughly the night before. Being the insensitive sort, I decided against long life preferring to enjoy my health and wisdom as long as allotted since I wouldn't know I was dead anyway. Nicole pointed out that this meant leaving Russell in the lurch - something which I don't think he had considered until that moment and which was hence voted selfish. The whole exercise was unnecessary, though. The signs around the fountain said the water grants all wishes and it doesn't matter where you drink. I had no way to know which fountain was which anyway, so I just drank from the far left one and called it good. Wish kept secret (even though it already came true - yay!).
We followed a beautiful walk back up to the main temple and then headed to lunch. We were having a hard time choosing a restaurant when nature chose for us. The rains began again and pushed us into a soba (buckwheat noodle) shop above a chopstick store. We had a lovely lunch and then headed out to our next site: the Kinkakuji. Russell and I had been to this temple before (the one covered in gold) but our friends had not. We walked through the gardens around the temple, took pictures, sat on the famous stone chair (which Russell and I had missed the first time around) and then ended the visit at the Matcha shop once again.
This time, we drank our matcha indoors on tatami mats. We were served by a very kind lady in a kimono who served us a la Tea Ceremony but insisted that it was not necessary for us to sit on our knees (as you would have to in a true tea ceremony). Everyone else was enjoying their tea in the fine weather outside, so the tea house was all ours. It was peaceful and blissfully cool thanks to a carefully tucked away air conditioning unit. Go modernity.
We ended the day at an Izakaya we found on a narrow little traditional street near the train station. Our guides picked it out and we went upstairs. It was a tiny, tiny place. I think the maximum capacity was probably about 15 and our group of 6 dominated the place. Luckily we had our own little nook under the stairs and while a bit tight, it was cozy and the food was FABULOUS. It is definitely worth it to take native Japanese speakers to Izakayas. Russell and I can rarely read the menus (they tend to be full of specialties of the house with names we have no chance of deciphering) but man, is the food good! Russell can usually find things we know, but its the things we don't know that usually taste the best. We had a wonderful salad, some barely cooked chicken breast (our guides were a bit put off and sent it back to be more fully grilled) and then came the super good stuff... the skin from the top of tofu fried with cheese in the middle and a kind of rice - was it called bad luck rice? Something like that. The rice was cooked with meat and vegetables that floated up to the top. When it is served, the guests stir the vegetables and meat into the rice, but of course, some bowls have more good stuff than others, no matter how carefully you mix. This inspired the name, but I can't quite remember what it was.
All told, though, it was a lovely day. Did I mention I love my Japanese teacher? She's the best. Her friend was really nice too - and Russell got to practice listening to two native Japanese speakers go at it without the speed turned down (which he thoroughly enjoyed). I was annoyed that I only got one day to play (I spent Saturday cooped up in a couple study abroad parent meetings), but we definitely made the most of it.
Our first stop was Kiyomizudera - probably the top most recommended temple in Kyoto. We had managed to miss it three times, but this time it was the central goal of the trip. We took the bus to the stop at the bottom of the hill and walked up a long windy road lined with tourist shops, quality goods and restaurants. It would have been quite interesting if it hadn't also been down pouring at the time. We were doing our best not to get drenched as we made our way up the hill.
The thing with Japanese rainy season (and this one got off to a late start and is now making up for it) is that the skies tend to open up for maybe 10 minutes, and then the weather can be lovely again. Sometimes there is a real storm that lasts, but those mostly seem to happen at night. Luckily, this was one of the short-lived variety and by the time we arrived at the temple, the sun was out humidity building once again. We took some pictures outside the temple and then headed in.
The nice thing about Kyomizudera is that once you are inside there is quite a lot of ground to cover and quite a few things to see and do. You are not just waiting in a long lone to see a statue and then waiting in a long line to leave. There was the large metal post that men were trying, unsuccessfully to lift. Russell followed suit. Then, there was the huge wooden overhang with the view of Kyoto below and the lush green mountains above. Next, we followed a path down through gorgeous greenery to a incense rich shrine where people were tossing in their coins, ringing the bell and then praying.
We continued along the path to another famous attraction at the temple: the three water fountains. Its not altogether clear where the water is coming from - I assume it is from a natural spring or stream that simply splits into three spouts before cascading over the water-drinking dais. To participate, you get in line, buy a personal keepsake cup if you so desire or just use one of the sterilized metal cups provided and then stick your cup under the waterfall and drink. The legend (which a number of signs around the fountains refuted) is that each spout of water offers a different kind of wish: long life, health, and wisdom. The website I had read before going said that you can drink from all three, but many people worry that doing so will seem greedy, so they choose only two to drink from. We had considered our options thoroughly the night before. Being the insensitive sort, I decided against long life preferring to enjoy my health and wisdom as long as allotted since I wouldn't know I was dead anyway. Nicole pointed out that this meant leaving Russell in the lurch - something which I don't think he had considered until that moment and which was hence voted selfish. The whole exercise was unnecessary, though. The signs around the fountain said the water grants all wishes and it doesn't matter where you drink. I had no way to know which fountain was which anyway, so I just drank from the far left one and called it good. Wish kept secret (even though it already came true - yay!). We followed a beautiful walk back up to the main temple and then headed to lunch. We were having a hard time choosing a restaurant when nature chose for us. The rains began again and pushed us into a soba (buckwheat noodle) shop above a chopstick store. We had a lovely lunch and then headed out to our next site: the Kinkakuji. Russell and I had been to this temple before (the one covered in gold) but our friends had not. We walked through the gardens around the temple, took pictures, sat on the famous stone chair (which Russell and I had missed the first time around) and then ended the visit at the Matcha shop once again.
This time, we drank our matcha indoors on tatami mats. We were served by a very kind lady in a kimono who served us a la Tea Ceremony but insisted that it was not necessary for us to sit on our knees (as you would have to in a true tea ceremony). Everyone else was enjoying their tea in the fine weather outside, so the tea house was all ours. It was peaceful and blissfully cool thanks to a carefully tucked away air conditioning unit. Go modernity.We ended the day at an Izakaya we found on a narrow little traditional street near the train station. Our guides picked it out and we went upstairs. It was a tiny, tiny place. I think the maximum capacity was probably about 15 and our group of 6 dominated the place. Luckily we had our own little nook under the stairs and while a bit tight, it was cozy and the food was FABULOUS. It is definitely worth it to take native Japanese speakers to Izakayas. Russell and I can rarely read the menus (they tend to be full of specialties of the house with names we have no chance of deciphering) but man, is the food good! Russell can usually find things we know, but its the things we don't know that usually taste the best. We had a wonderful salad, some barely cooked chicken breast (our guides were a bit put off and sent it back to be more fully grilled) and then came the super good stuff... the skin from the top of tofu fried with cheese in the middle and a kind of rice - was it called bad luck rice? Something like that. The rice was cooked with meat and vegetables that floated up to the top. When it is served, the guests stir the vegetables and meat into the rice, but of course, some bowls have more good stuff than others, no matter how carefully you mix. This inspired the name, but I can't quite remember what it was.
All told, though, it was a lovely day. Did I mention I love my Japanese teacher? She's the best. Her friend was really nice too - and Russell got to practice listening to two native Japanese speakers go at it without the speed turned down (which he thoroughly enjoyed). I was annoyed that I only got one day to play (I spent Saturday cooped up in a couple study abroad parent meetings), but we definitely made the most of it.
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